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History of Spain – City Blog

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History of Spain – City Blog

Author Archives: Henry Owen

Toledo: Bulwark of Empires

20 Sunday Apr 2025

Posted by Henry Owen in Granada

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written by William Perkins & Henry Owen, posted by Henry Owen due to IT difficulties

Toledo was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 thanks to the important roles it held for the many different empires and kingdoms it survived. The city has had considerable influence on surrounding areas and events for many different reasons—during the Visigoth period, it was the capital of a far-reaching kingdom, and during the Renaissance, it was one of the most important cities in Spain. Toledo showcases well-preserved tradition, architectural features, and structures from a vast number of historic civilizations, as well as having a long history in the production of steel and swords.

Antiquity

One of the first recorded accounts of the city of Toletum came from the Roman historian Livy, describing the place as a “small city, fortified by location”. This is in reference to the city’s geography, situated on a promontory that is surrounded by the Tagus River on three sides. Before Roman occupation, it was once inhabited by a Celtic tribe, the Carpetani. Roman general Marcus Fulvius Nobilior conquered the city in 193 BCE and the city would remain important throughout the different eras of Roman administration, though its importance grew more in the later periods. During the time of the Romans, a circus was constructed in Toletum, becoming one of the largest circuses in Hispania. This circus was used for chariot races on special holidays, and records exist that show there were games paid for by a private citizen to celebrate him becoming a priest. Along with the circus, public baths, a water supply, and a storage system were also constructed.

Middle Ages

During the sixth century, Toledo was the capital of the Visigothic court and was host to a series of famous church councils, the third of which featured King Recared’s conversion to Christianity—and most of these councils were held to discuss and deal with religious issues and conflicts. From the early eighth century to the late eleventh century the Moors occupied the city, putting down multiple revolts from the city due to issues with Parias (tribute) and territorial mutilations. During the Umayyad caliphate, a governor was held hostage in Toledo in a demand for the return of Toledan hostages that were being held in Cordoba. This escalated into a feud with the city of Calatrava la Vieja, and Toledo attacked and nearly destroyed Calatrava in the mid-800s. Though Toledo suffered a defeat, they did not surrender, and after more unsuccessful military moves from both sides, Toledo remained virtually independent for the next two decades until Muhammad I finally successfully sieged Toledo and gained control. A large contingent of the population were Mozarabs during the Moorish occupation and integrated smoothly when King Alfonso VI conquered the city.

After a protracted set of military campaigns, Toledo became the most important political and social hub of Castile. The residents were a mix of culturally Jewish, Muslim, and Christian subjects who all engaged in cross-cultural efforts such as when Alfonso X established the Escuela de Traductores (School of Translators) to facilitate such interactions in the thirteenth century. Toledo also hosted a royal library and at least one private library, with records showing that one contained copies of religious commentaries, religious works, and works that would later become very influential on medieval Spanish laws. However, these efforts were not without internal strife as the Archdiocese of Toledo sponsored multiple persecutions throughout the seventh century. The Kingdom of Toledo doubled down on this trend as many forced conversions, mass murders, and riots would follow in the thirteenth to the fifteenth century. Toledo remained a key part of Spain’s holdings until its importance decreased drastically during the reign of the Holy Roman Emperors.

Modern Era

The Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, would choose Toledo as his residence fifteen times over his lengthy reign, granting the city its coat of arms. When Charles V named Toledo as his (temporary) seat, it entered a period of economic and political decadence. Toledo would remain relevant to the empire even when Phillip II made Madrid the capital in 1560, drastically lowering the city’s importance to the empire, even as the population increased to over 50,000. The Archbishops of the city remained powerful figures in local politics, owning vast swaths of land in the Inner Plateau and some nearby outer territories.

Many years after the Reconquista, a mass deportation of Moriscos to the city caused quite a stir due to the recent Alpujarras rebellion and the logistical feat of transporting the migrants to the city. The remaining social system that had weathered the mixing cultures and social classes was destroyed by the immigration wave, influencing a long trend of xenophobic attacks on the Morisco population.

For centuries the city excelled in the manufacture of silk, growing in prosperity until the Peninsular War. In the nineteenth century, Toledo gradually transitioned from a convent city into a more secular bureaucratic administration. This change in policy carried the city through the Spanish Civil War and Franco’s regime.

Just before the Spanish Civil War, the Alcázar of Toledo (which had been built during the reign of Charles V) was serving as the Infantry’s military academy. During the war, it was used as a refuge for Nationalists and was sieged by Republican troops and militias for two months until Franco ordered the Army of Africa to rescue the Alcázar. The siege failed, though the building was very nearly destroyed. This “liberation” did result in a major propaganda victory for Franco and gave rise to many tales of heroism and sacrifice, though many of them had been far removed from the actual events of the siege.

During Franco’s regime, the city remained a major tourist destination and an ideal location for diplomatic meetings. One of the most important meetings that took place in the city was in 1940 between Heinrich Himmler and Director General of Security José Finat y Escrivá de Romaní to inspect Spanish security forces and discuss future Spanish-German cooperation. During his visit, Himmler toured the ruins of the Alcázar.

Tastes of Toledo

18 Friday Apr 2025

Posted by Henry Owen in Granada

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Marzipan

Toledo’s culinary scene is likely most well-known for its marzipan! Marzipan is a dessert made with sugar or honey, egg whites and almond meal, and is used as the base for a dessert, as a filling, or as a stand-alone that can be shaped and colored to look like miniature fruits!. Many cities across Europe claim marzipan as a specialty, with Toledo among them. The legend of marzipan in Toledo dates back to the invasions of Spain by the Almohads (who were Berber Muslims from North Africa). Many people in the southern Castilian region took refuge in Toledo, where they faced famine due to an existing food scarcity and the large increase in the population. However, the Church there had large swaths of land that grew large reserves of almonds. The population thought to mix the almonds with the fruit and sugar they had, creating marzipan and alleviating their hunger.

Marzipan is so important to Toledo that there were three separate clauses dedicated to it by Toledo’s Confectioner’s Guild in the 1600s! Santo Tomé is one of the original manufacturers of marzipan in Toledo, still going strong since its establishment in 1856, and has kept records of the history of marzipan (all accessible on their website)!

You can get brunch (even if you’re gluten-free!), purchase boxes of marzipan carefully crafted to look like miniature fruit, learn more about the history of marzipan, read the marzipan clauses, and visit the largest marzipan Don Quixote in the world (measuring over 11 feet in height and weighing over 1,300 pounds) at the Santo Tomé confectionery website.

Carcamusa

Carcamusa is a specialty of Toledo: it’s a pork stew with vegetables such as tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, garlic, and peas, and the tomato-based sauce in it is typically made moderately spicy from the chorizo. It is usually served as a tapa with crusty bread. Though it is a popular dish, the origins of the stew are unclear: most sources attribute it to the restaurant Bar Ludeña in the mid-20th century, but the name of the dish is still speculated about. Bar Ludeña is still a very popular place to eat, and with affordable prices, it’s a favorite for any visiting student—but be sure to show up early, because its popularity often means that the restaurant is jam-packed!

Manchego cheese

Manchego cheese is a delicious cheese made from sheep’s milk, aged from 60 days up to 2 years. It has a firm, buttery texture, with a developed, distinctive flavor and nutty undertones. The Manchego Cheese Museum in the heart of historic Toledo is dedicated to the history and production of Manchego cheese. There’s also a tasting room in the museum, where you can taste the best Manchego cheese varieties on offer, paired with the best wines of the Mancha region!

Where to eat?

Toledo is also home to many food markets, with Mercado de San Agustín one of the most well-known. The Mercado de San Agustín is a 23-stall multi-level market that offers a variety of cuisines, both local and foreign, from Manchego cheese salads to Japanese food. This market offers quality food, products, and even tastings, cooking classes, and guided tours of the marketplace—you can’t miss out, it’s a perfect place to grab a bite to eat between classes, sit down for a longer meal, or stock up for the week!

One of the premier restaurants in Toledo is the Restaurante Victor Sánchez-Beato, founded and operated by Chef Victor Sánchez-Beato after he returned, inspired, from a trip to Japan. The restaurant is so small that it can only fit 16 diners (by design), leading to a very personal dining experience that the chef describes as the diner being the “protagonist” of the experience. It is on the pricey side at 62 euros per person, so while it may not be possible to eat there every day, it is definitely worth going once for the experience!

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