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Category Archives: Paris

All the President’s Women

18 Tuesday Dec 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris, Politics

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From the Washington Post: Since taking over in May, Francois Hollande has repeatedly asked the French to regard him as a “normal” president.

Well, maybe. But it would be easier if his first lady, Valerie Trierweiler, were not a live-in girlfriend.

It would also be easier if he had married the woman he lived with for nearly three decades and had four children with before taking up with Trierweiler, a political reporter who wants to carry on as an independent journalist with an office near the president’s. And it would certainly be easier if the two women were not the subject of several books just out that describe in shudder-inducing detail how they elbowed for prominence as Hollande rose to the presidency.

“For a president who wants to be normal, this is not a great record,” said Philippe Allary, a physical therapist who prefers former president Nicolas Sarkozy.

The public airing of Hollande’s family troubles — one reviewer wondered whether to describe them as “vaudeville or tragedy” — has undercut the president’s standing, according to his son; his former companion, Segolene Royal; and independent analysts, because it depicts him as unable to impose his will on two obviously headstrong womenwho cannot stand each other.  Read more here.

Never Lose Your Wallet in Paris

17 Monday Dec 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris, Study Abroad

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From the Washington Post:  During my first week in Paris, I shooed away several groups of would-be thieves and pickpockets: thin young men and women preying on vulnerable tourists, swarming around them, badgering them to sign a piece of paper or read a document in English, or pretending that they’d found a valuable gold ring. These scams must work some of the time, because you see these groups over and over.

A week after we arrived, my wife went to Israel to visit her family, leaving me alone in Paris. The day after she left, a Saturday morning, I started early and walked for hours, heading toward Montmartre. When I got there, I was exhausted and looked it: a sweaty 72-year-old tourist; a turkey fit to be plucked.  Continuez.

Old-Car Owners in Paris Bristle at Proposed Ban

27 Tuesday Nov 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris, Politics

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From the NYT: By proposing to reduce air pollution by banning vehicles made before 1997, Mayor Bertrand Delanoë has angered vintage car owners and motorist groups and raised concerns among those who say they cannot afford new cars.

Mr. Delanoë’s proposal is part of a wider push by local authorities to comply with European regulations and establish a low-emission zone around metropolitan Paris, including many suburbs, by 2014. The plan would extend the mayor’s efforts to make the city more pedestrian-friendly by reducing the number of cars. These efforts include introducing the Vélib’ bicycle rental program, establishing the Autolib’ electric-car rental system and cutting vehicle traffic along the banks of the Seine.

But the ban would include many of the most recognizably French cars, including the Citroën 2CV, known as the Deux Chevaux; the Citroën DS, celebrated for its clean, distinctive design; the Renault 4L, a practical Everyman’s car of the 1960s and ’70s; and many classic Peugeots.  Continuez.

New Islamic Galleries at the Louvre

20 Thursday Sep 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris

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From the NYT: When I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid opened at the Louvre more than 20 years ago, many argued that this 70-foot-tall structure had destroyed the classical beauty of one of the world’s great museums. But today, as crowds wait on long lines outside the pyramid, which serves as the Louvre’s main entrance, what once seemed audacious has become as accepted a part of the city’s visual landscape as the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe.

Now the museum is again risking the public’s wrath as it introduces the most radical architectural intervention since the pyramid in 1989. Designed to house new galleries for Islamic art, it consists of ground- and lower-ground-level interior spaces topped by a golden, undulating roof that seems to float within the neo-Classical Visconti Courtyard in the middle of the Louvre’s south wing, right below the museum’s most popular galleries, where the Mona Lisa and Veronese’s “Wedding Feast of Cana” are hung.

Ten years in the making, the $125 million project, which opens on Saturday, has been financed in part by the French government, along with Prince Alwaleed bin Talal of Saudi Arabia, who gave the Louvre $20 million toward the galleries, the largest single monetary gift ever given to the museum. Corporations have kicked in money too, including Total, the oil company, and the governments of countries like Saudi Arabia, Oman, Morocco, Kuwait and the Republic of Azerbaijan.  Continuez.

The Champs-Élysées, a Mall of America

15 Saturday Sep 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris

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From the NYT:  André Malraux, the novelist and minister of culture under Charles de Gaulle, told a French-American journalist in the 1960s that the Champs-Élysées — then considered the most beautiful avenue in the world — had “an American basement.” Today, American business and its brands are prominently aboveground on a Champs-Élysées that has largely lost its distinctive character and has become far less French. 

In a movement that has only accelerated in recent years, a large part of the broad street has become overrun with outlets for clothing brands that most Americans would hardly consider haute couture or even exclusive. Banana Republic has just opened a store, and Levi’s has a massive new space, not far from the new H&M. They are joining, and competing with, the Gap, Nike, Tommy Hilfiger and Abercrombie & Fitch. At least Tiffany & Company is coming, replacing a burger joint.

The movie glamour that brought a young Jean Seberg to the Champs-Élysées to meet Jean-Paul Belmondo, her handsome gangster “dragueur,” or skirt chaser, is long gone, as are most of the sights in Jean-Luc Godard’s famous film of 1960, “Breathless,” a kind of French hymn to American culture and cool.  Continue reading here.

After Liberté and Égalité, It’s Autopsie

17 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris

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Philippe Charlier, a physician and anthropologist, is known for his forensic research into some of France’s most famous dead.

From the NYT:  GARCHES, France — The plastic vial with the red top is Henri IV. The one with the blue top is the never-crowned Louis XVII.

Diane de Poitiers, the favorite mistress of Henri II, sits in a squat translucent vial a few inches away. Then there is Charles III, one of the Carolingian kings, locked in two black wooden file cabinets.

Their remains are the passion — or perhaps obsession — of Philippe Charlier, France’s most famous forensic sleuth.

A 34-year-old medical doctor and anthropologist, he conducts autopsies on bodies brought to the Raymond Poincaré University Hospital in the Paris suburb of Garches by morning and teaches at Paris Descartes University by afternoon. In between, he investigates the illnesses and deaths of the rich and powerful who made French history.

He refers to these subjects as his patients, and he prides himself on using the same rigorous methods as he would on current forensic cases. “Whether it’s Joan of Arc or a hand the police bring in from the Seine, it’s equally important,” he said.

But Dr. Charlier does not confine himself to his closet of a laboratory at the hospital here. He writes books, makes television documentaries and does radio broadcasts to popularize his findings, which has earned him the title of “Indiana Jones of the graveyards.”  Lisez l’article ici.

Vivez la Langue

20 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Film, Language, Paris, Style

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From EF: Here’s a beautiful short story all in French, complete with phonetic transcriptions.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_QO8LoGNpc&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Very%20Short%20List%20-%20Daily&utm_campaign=VSL%2005%2F23[/youtube]

Visions of France: Three Postwar Photographers

19 Tuesday Jun 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris

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An exhibition on French photographers through July 8 at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts . 

Many people consider Paris the “cradle of street photography,” a reference to an approach that, loosely defined, focuses on spontaneous images of daily life in urban areas. This exhibition looks at the work of three photographers—each roughly a generation younger than the next—who worked within this tradition while developing their own distinct visions: Robert Doisneau (French, 1912–1994), Édouard Boubat (French, 1923–1999), and Joel Meyerowitz (American, b. 1938). Although these photographers traveled throughout the world, this exhibition features their images of France—primarily those of Paris—as an homage to street photography.  Free admission.

Parisian Bistros

31 Thursday May 2012

Posted by Wade Edwards in Culture, Paris

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Culture, Paris

Having had the good fortune to live in Paris for the last 25 years, I’ve watched the evolution of the city’s bistrots with an alternating mixture of sorrow and elation. As a dyed-in-the-wool Paris bistrot lover, though, it’s been a long time since I’ve been so upbeat and optimistic, because Paris bistrots are not just surviving but thriving, with a fresh generation of excellent new-style neighborhood bistrots adding another delicious and affordable layer of choices to the capital’s gastronomic landscape.  Continue reading from France Today.

♣ L’Invitation au voyage

Là, tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté,
Luxe, calme et volupté.

There all is order, naught amiss:
Comfort and beauty, calm and bliss.

~Charles Baudelaire
Les Fleurs du mal

Translation: Norman Shapiro

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